ASA 103 - BASIC COASTAL CRUISING CERTIFICATION

OTHER BOOKS & SAILING EDUCATION RESOURCES

   

ADVANCED SAILING (ASA 103 - Skippering)

  1. Additional Parts of the Boat

  2. Items required by the USCG

  3. Firefighting - types of extinguishers

  4. Safety Procedures

  5. Knots

  6. Fuels & safety

  7. Additional Man Overboard Techniques - Hypothermia

  8. Rules of the Road - Navigation Rules

  9. Navigational Lights required for sailboats under sail/power, at anchor

  10. Chart work & navigation

  11. Magnetic Compass

  12. Anchoring

  13. Advanced Maneuvering

  14. Diver Flags

  15. Sail Combinations

  16. Weather Hazards

  17. Skipper & Crew responsibilities

ALL ITEMS IN STUDY GUIDE WILL BE FOUND ON ASA 103 WRITTEN EXAM

OTHER ASA STUDY GUIDES

 

BASIC KEELBOAT (ASA 101 - Learn to Sail)

 

INTERMEDIATE CRUISING STUDY GUIDE (ASA 104 - Bareboat Charter)

 

COASTAL NAVIGATION (ASA 105 - HOME STUDY COURSE GUIDE)

 

INTRO TO SKIPPERING

        1.  ADDITIONAL PARTS OF THE BOAT

DEFINE ARE

AS ON BOARD

 

The Transom – The back of the boat, at the stern, where the name of the boat is usually seen, and the Hull ID# is found. 

The Head – the bathroom/toilet/shower 

The Galley – The kitchen area on a boat, always called the galley – stove, sink, icebox/frig

V-Berth - The forward cabin that’s V-shaped (no kidding right?)

Bow (Forward)  -  Toward the front of the boat

Stern (Aft) -  Toward the back of the boat

Pulpit -  Strong tubing frame on the stern and the bow, where lifelines attach

 

REEFING

Roller Reefing – where the boom rolls the main sail around it, shortening the sail for heavier wind.

Jiffy or Slab Reefing – used to shorten main sail for heavier wind by having lines through the sails clew that can be pulled down quickly and adjusted tightly for quick (or jiffy) reefing.  Some have diamond shape reinforcements sewn along the new foot with grommet in the middle and a line that is used to tie the shortened sail in place firmly.  When reefing, you must also make a new tack by tacking the reefing grommet and hooking it around a 'ram's horn' to hold it in place.

ADDITIONAL PARTS OF THE BOAT

 

Turnbuckle –  Strong, stainless steel fitting that has threads on each end and is attached at the bottom of the forestay, backstay, and shrouds. Can be tightened/loosened if needed. Held in place once set with pins.

Chainplate – Fitting at the bottom of the turnbuckle that goes through the deck and is affixed to something solid and stable to hold the rigging in place firmly.

Gudgeon - attached to the boat, where the pintles slide in, to hold the rudder on the back of the boat.

Pintle – pins on the rudder that slide into the holes of the gudgeon where the rudder will be affixed in place when in use.

Tiller/Wheel:  Steering arm or mechanism – controls rudder

Rudderpost – used as a lever to get more purchase when hauling lines. Offers pulling power.

Binnacle -  Solid fitting where the wheel is attached in the cockpit. Compass usually found on top of binnacle.

Through-hull fitting - Any fitting that goes through the hull under the waterline.

Self bailing cockpit drain -  Drains in the cockpit that lead out either down through the hull (they fill up to the waterline only) or drains out the back of the cockpit near the waterline. Allows water to be drained out of the cockpit if swamped by a wave.

Masthead Fly (Windex)– Cool object on top of the mast that points into the wind showing the wind direction.

2.  ITEMS REQUIRED BY THE US COAST GUARD & RECOMMENDED BY THE A.S.A for a boat of 27 feet in length with an auxiliary outboard engine.  Chart for all size boats available in the Federal Safety Guide in ASA Package

REQUIRED BY THE US COAST GUARD

RECOMMENDED BY ASA

USCG approved PFD (personal floatation device) Type I,II, or III for each person aboard - must fit appropriately

Two anchors with at least 200' rode and markers defining the intervals of length

One Type IV throwable floatation device (Type 4 cushion, Ring or horseshoe buoy)

A copy of the local chart and an operable compass

Operable Navigation Lights

VHF radio

Day (Orange flag with black ball/black circle)  & Night visual distress signals (Handheld Flares, Rocket flares)

Safety harnesses for each person aboard

 

Sound producing device (horn)

 

Bailer or manual bilge pump

Fire extinguisher, 2 Type B-1 or 1 Type B-II   

(B is the type of fir

e it fights and I or II is the size - Type B:  Boil - fights fires from flammable liquids)

First Aid kit, tool kit and spare parts, soft wood plugs tied next to each through hull fitting in case of leaks

State registration numbers & sticker on both sides of the bow

Flashlight with some extra batteries

      3.  FIREFIGHTING

TYPES OF FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

A,B,C =  Type of fire to fight              I,II,II = Size

TYPE A

TYPE B TYPE C

Ash -  Paper, cloth

Boil - Flammable Liquids

Current -  Electrical

On Exam:  On an 27 foot sailboat with an auxiliary outboard engine -  the USCG requires either Two B-1, or One B-II
Details on requirements for various sized vessels can be found here:     http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/fed_reqs/equ_refchart.htm

Failure to comply with requirements can result in fines from the local law enforcement/USCG.

Be sure to know what you're vessel is required to have.  You can get FREE vessel safety checks from the USCG Auxiliary in Ithaca, NY every other Saturday during the summer.  They will tell you if you are missing any requirements. 

  

        4.  SAFETY ITEMS & PROCEDURES -  All on 103 exam
In Cabin On Deck Flares Fog Steering
Running Aground Fouling Propeller Leaks Rigging Using VHF Radio

 IN THE CABIN

  • Stow all gear in cabin MOST IMPORTANTLY in order to keep it safe and organized.  When crew is walking through cabin, gear should not fly around when the boat lurches and rocks.  Stowing gear in the same place each time, helps in emergencies so that everything is easy to find when it's needed.

  • You would also want to be sure gear is stowed effectively in order to keep it from getting wet.

ON DECK

  • When walking forward always have ONE HAND FOR YOU AND ONE FOR THE SHIP

  • The lifelines should never be climbed on our used like a ladder.  The bow and stern pulpit are the solid point where the lifelines attach to, and the lifelines are meant to keep the crew on deck.  You should NOT hang on or put undue pressure on the lifelines.

  • A safety harness is meant to help keep a crew member attached to the boat.  Jack lines are the lines that run the length of the boat from bow to stern, which you would use to attach your tether.  The tether is clipped onto your safety harness.  Crew should clip onto the jack lines whenever exiting the cabin and entering the cockpit during heavy weather and when sailing offshore. 

FLARES

  • Flares are used as night or day distress signals. 

  • Day/Night distress signals are required by the US Coast Guard

  • Flares can be handheld or launched from a flare gun

  • To operate flares, the instructions are as follows:  Remove black cover on top of flare, hold away from body,  face and boat, Always point flares to leeward, strike ignition button against striker surface on flare cap.

  • NEVER STRAP A FLARE TO THE BOAT !

  • NEVER IGNITE THE FLARE ON THE WINDWARD SIDE OF THE BOAT !

FOG

  • When operating in fog, observe these precautions:     Slow down, get all crew on deck to help listen for approaching boats and watch for obstructions, keep quiet so you can hear approaching vessels, sound appropriate sound signals to describe your vessel and listen for others sound signals, maintain a lookout, hoist a radar reflector, keep track of your course and distance and plot your position on your chart.

  • NEVER drive fast through fog, enter shipping lanes in fog, turn up music loud, or send the crew away.

  • SOUND SIGNAL FOR A SAILBOAT UNDERWAY IN FOG:   _____________    _    _      Every 2 minutes

STEERING FAILURE

  • First -  Set up another method of steering.  You can steer with the sails if necessary.  If you lost your rudder, you may want to rig another rudder.  If you're wheel steering failed, you can attach an emergency tiller

  • Second -  Put all crew in PFD if not already

  • Third - If necessary, radio for assistance or contact a local boat for help with visual distress signals

RUNNING AGROUND

  • There are three types of sailors -  those who have run aground, those who will run aground and those who lie

  • If you run aground while sailing on a beam reach, you can immediately, ease the sheets to reduce your forward momentum

  • You may be able to sail or motor off if you're not hard aground

  • You may also be able to jibe if you're sailing a broad reach or a run in order to get off being grounded

  • If you are hard aground you want to check the depth on all sides of the boat and try to kedge the boat off to deeper water with an anchor set out to the side of the boat, or attach an anchor rode to a halyard and try to heel the boat.

  • Check tide tables to see if it's high or low tide

  • If all else fails, you can always request a tow

FOULING PROPELLER

  • A propeller can get fouled, or wrapped by a line or wire in various situations.  Some prop fouling comes from things such as fishing lines, stray lines floating in the water, long stringy weeds, dinghy towing line (painter), lines thrown to retrieve a Man overboard.

  • The first thing you would do in this case is to STOP THE ENGINE.  This stops the fouling from getting worse.

  • The boat will be drifting at this point (unless the sails are up) so you'll want to stop the boat from hitting anything but dropping the anchor if possible, or setting the sails to remove you from a dangerous collision with other boats, walls docks, etc.

  • You will have to cut the line free somehow, but you'll want to be VERY cautious as the boat will lurch up in waves and could crash on top of you if you're underneath the boat. You may hire a diver to come and free the line if you don't feel confident in cutting it free.

LEAKS

  • Leaks can come from open hatches, leaky hatches, through-hull fittings that have broken or worn out or a hole in the side of the boat.

  • First course of action is always to determine the source of the leak and decide how extreme the leak is.  Plug the leak by the most effective means.  Sometimes this means putting a soft wood plug into a broken through-hull or piling cushions on the location and trying to stuff it and stop water from entering. 

  • You should then be sure to activate bilge pumps to remove any water that has entered the boat.  Be sure to monitor how fast the leak is filling the boat.

  • If the boat is holed, you can use a collision mat, or take the sail and drape it over the hole stopping water from entering.

RIGGING

  • Rigging can fail in many capacities.  The mast can break, the wire stays/shrouds can bust, a halyard can snap or a block could burst of of it's mount. 

  • If standing rigging fails, you should FIRST take the load off the rigging, by positioning the boat to reduce strain, and easing sails. 

  • If a halyard were to break, you would FIRST have to secure the sail and then work on rigging another halyard.  Often you may have an extra halyard or a spinnaker halyard that is not being used at the moment.

USING VHF RADIO

  • Channel 16 is the HAILING STATION -  it is used to hail another boat, or to call for help in an emergency

  • Radio checks should NOT be performed on Channel 16, but instead on 68 or 72, which are intership stations

  • If no one returns your radio check you can use a handheld radio to listen for your transmittal

  • May Day is used only in life threatening situations or if your vessel is seriously endangered. (on fire, sinking, abandoning ship)

  • Pan-Pan is used for emergency situations that are not life-threatening but require immediate assistance (ie: lost steerageway and drifting without control)

  • Securitay -  is used for broadcasting navigational hazards.

  • These are done on Channel 16

  • WX is the weather frequency -  You should listen to the weather EACH TIME YOU GO OUT ON THE WATER.  You can get the hazardous weather outlook, most recent condition update, weather system info for the region, extended weather outlook, wind speed and direction and anticipated changes.  Don't always rely on the fact that the wind speeds are accurate as often they are forecast much lower than what is really out there.  Use the natural surroundings and clouds to help choose sail configuration and also look at other boats already on the water.

  • TO TRANSMIT -  Be sure to depress knob, speak and let go of knob when finished.  To call another vessel you will say the name of the vessel three times, and identify yourself.  EX.  "Belle-Meres, Belle-Meres, Belle-Meres, this is Skai, over".  OVER MEANS YOU'RE DONE SPEAKING AND AWAITING A RESPONSE.   Belle-Mere replys:  "This is Belle-Meres, go to 68, OVER."  Both parties switch to channel 68, wait for it to be clear and discuss their business.  when finished and not awaiting a response the correct transmission is "This is Skai, OUT".  OUT MEANS I'M FINISHED AND I'M NOT AWAITING A RESPONSE."

  • Calling to Bridges or locks is done on specific stations, see guidebooks or cruising guides or signs for info.

 

       5. KNOTS

Knots that you should know:

THESE ARE NEW: (click titles for example in motion)  Round turn and two half hitches (for securing an unattended boat) Sheet bend (securing lines of unequal diameter - also known as a flag bend)

THESE ARE REVIEW:   Bowline, Figure 8, Cleat Hitch, Clove hitch, half hitches, reef knot.   Visit www.seaitallhere.com/knots and go to our knots page for illustrations and practice.

There are some basic knots that very important and can be applied in most situations to get you through. 

 

1.       Overhand Knot   -Stopper knot  - Very difficult to untie.  Use when it’s not necessary to untie regularly. Makes it easy to grip rope with overhand knots every foot.

 

2.       Figure 8 Knot -  Stopper Knot – Used on running rigging.  Use on the end of sheets to keep them from flailing through blocks (nautical pulleys).

 

 3.   Reef Knot – Bend  (ONLY for temporary joining of two lines) Used on lines of equal diameter.  Use this for reefing.  It is easy to get undone, but secure for reefing.

 

 4.       Clove Hitch – Hitch  -  Used to fasten a line to a rail, post, spar or bollard. Use on round posts.  Add two half hitches to make is secure

5.  Bowline (prounounced bow-lin)  Loop  -A non-slipping temporary loop.  The bowline has been called the king of knots; it will hold under tension, will never jam, and can be easily untied. Use this line for many things.  It’s very versatile.  For example, it’s often used when stepping the mast.  It is tied around the spreaders in order to lift the mast.  The standing end will lead to the gin pole or crane.  Also use when tying to a post.

 

 6.       Half Hitches – Hitch – (Often used with the clove hitch to make more secure)

 

 

7. Round turn and 2 half hitches –   Strong, dependable, never jams. Fasten lines to a ring, post, bollard, deck eye, rail.  Use to attach fenders to lifelines temporarily or to tie your horse to a post in Nevada (if you’re a cowgirl.)

 

8.  Cleat Hitch    Tie around cleats

Cleat Hitch

 

    6.  FUELS, GASES & SAFETY

There are various fuels in use on board cruising boats. Always clean up any fuel spills by wiping up or washing away fuel. Always ventilate cabin and sniff bilges for fumes before starting engine or electrical equipment.  CLOSE UP CABIN  BEFORE FUELING WITH GASOLINE SO VAPORS DON'T ENTER CABIN. Fire extinguishers should not be mounted in engine compartments (unless fixed mount) because if fire starts there, you cannot get to the extinguisher.

**IN ORDER TO INSURE SAFETY, MAKE SURE YOU VENTILATE ALL CABINS OR AREAS WHERE THERE ARE POTENTIAL FIRE HAZARDS

 

GASOLINE

DIESEL PROPANE KEROSENE ALCOHOL

Used for:  Outboard or inboard engines

 

Used mostly for inboard engine and sometimes heating source

Used for cooking

Used mostly for lighting and sometimes for cooking

Used mostly for cooking and sometimes for heating

Always have proper ventilation or a blower for inboard gas engines.  Gasoline is highly flammable. Always shut off engine, remove all crew from boat when fueling, NEVER refill portable tanks on board boat.  Keep fuel fill in contact with tank to avoid spark and fire. Make sure portable tanks have vents that can be opened or closed, and leave open when starting, closed when transporting or relocating. After fueling, open cabin and ventilate before starting engine! Diesel fuel has a higher flashpoint (ignition level) than gasoline, so it is much safer.  Diesel tanks have ventilation. Propane is under pressure and can be dangerous if leaks persist.  Can cause explosion if leaking.  Tanks should be mounted with vent over the side of the boat above the waterline. Many brass lamps are lighted by use of Kerosene.  Other stoves can operate on kerosene as well. 

It carries a strong odor and can cause headaches.

Alcohol stoves burn a wet flame and do not burn as hot as propane.  Holding tanks are not under much pressure and do not have the same dangerous potential to explode as propane does

There are various gases omitted while operating cruising boats.  Some are as follows:

HYDROGEN GAS METHANE GAS
Batteries give off hydrogen gas when charging A waste holding tank on board cruising boats can give off methane gas
Battery storage areas should always have proper ventilation to the battery storage location in order to let hydrogen gas escape and be vented out of cabin Waste holding tanks should be emptied regularly and odor & bacteria reducing chemicals should be added to tanks.  Tanks should be cleared out with plain water when emptying.

 

7.  ADDITIONAL MAN OVERBOARD TECHNIQUES -  HYPOTHERMIA SYMPTOMS

Sailors should practice the Figure 8 method of retrieving a Man Overboard regularly in a variety of conditions, so that it's second nature if it should happen.  If possible, practice with a real person in the water can make it more realistic, but please use extreme caution !!!!  To retrieve a person in the water, use a ladder if they can climb it, or rig the boom vang or 4 to 1 purchase tackle to a winch for more pulling power.  If possible, do not put another person in the water to save the first victim.  Be sure to attach all to the boat as soon as possible.

WHEN YOU HAVE A CREW OVERBOARD SITUATION YOU SHOULD ALWAYS TREAT THE VICTIM FOR HYPOTHERMIA !

LEVELS OF HYPOTHERMIA CAN BE DETERMINED AS FOLLOWS:

MILD HYPOTHERMIA

1.  Violent Shivering

2.  Slurred Speech

 

MEDIUM HYPOTHERMIA

1.  Loss of muscular control

2. Incoherence, drowsiness, exhaustion

 

SEVERE HYPOTHERMIA

1.  Respiratory distress

2.  Collapse & unconsciousness

NEVER DO THE FOLLOWING TO A HYPOTHERMIC VICTIM:

Massage limbs, administer aspirin/medication or alcohol, elevate head, position on stomach

If you are the Overboard Victim(s):

-Stay in one place so the crew can find you, stay still to keep in body heat, keep clothing on, put on floatation device if not already wearing one, float in the HELP position (fetal position)

-If there is a GROUP OF PEOPLE, in the water together wearing PFDs, you should huddle together face to face with arms around each other as you await rescue.

To treat MEDIUM HYPOTHERMIA -  You should apply direct body heat.  Get wet clothes off victim and rescuers should take off most clothing and get into sleeping bag or under blanket and press warm body against the victim to warm them.

 

8.  NAVIGATION

RULES OF THE ROAD -  REVIEW

In any navigational right of way situation, there is always a Stand-On Vessel  AND a Give Way Vessel

STAND ON VESSEL - Has the right of way, must maintain course and speed

GIVE WAY VESSEL -  DOES NOT have the right of way, must slow down, and/or stay out of the way of the Stand On Vessel(s)

Right of way UNDER SAIL ONLY

  • When 2 boats are on OPPOSITE tacks - STARBOARD  tack has the right of way

  • When both boats are on SAME tack - downwind (LEEWARD) boat always has the right of way.

UNDER POWER:

  • A Sailboat (or any vessel) with its engine on is considered a power boat

  • Vessels to your right are in your DANGER Zone (you give way when paths crossing) You will see a red light at night when in the danger zone.  RED MEANS STOP.

  • Vessels to your left are in your SAFETY Zone  (you stand on your course when paths cross)  You will see a green light at night when in the safety zone.  GREEN MEANS GO

OVERTAKING (PASSING)

  • ANY vessel that is being overtaken (passed) is the STAND ON VESSEL (Right of way)

  • If you are passing....you must give way

POWER VS. SAIL

Sail generally has the right of way over power vessels, unless:

  • The power vessel is a tanker in a narrow channel (or the vessel is constrained by its draft)

  • The vessel is at anchor

  • The vessel is commercial fishing

  • The vessel is restricted in its ability to maneuver (ie: dredging, commercial fishing)

  • The vessel is adrift (not under command)

SAIL VS. SAIL

  • When on OPPOSITE TACK -   STARBOARD HAS RIGHT OF WAY (Stand on vessel)

  • When on SAME TACK -  LEEWARD BOAT HAS RIGHT OF WAY  (Stand on vessel)

 

9.  NAVIGATION -  REQUIRED LIGHTS

See the USCG site for arcs of visibility (ON 103 EXAM):  http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/mwv/navrules/Arcs.htm

UNDER SAIL ONLY UNDER POWER BOATS AT ANCHOR
Figure 2 Navigation Lights Figure 1A Navigation Lights
Red sidelight:  112.5 degrees Red sidelight:  112.5 degrees All around white light:  360 degrees
Green sidelight:  112.5 degrees Green sidelight:  112.5 degrees Sail:  located at top of mast
White Stern Light:  135 degrees aft White Stern Light:  135 degrees aft  
Option: Combo light atop the mast Sail Under Power:  White Steaming Light shining forward of the mast at the spreaders:  225 degrees  

 

NAVIGATION

CHARTS - NAVIGATIONAL AIDS

Charts -  Use a chart for navigating any waters that you are boating
**DISTANCE ON A NAUTICAL CHART IS MEASURED IN NAUTICAL MILES   (Statue mile X 1.15 = Nautical Mile)
**ONE MINUTE OF LATITUDE EQUALS ONE NAUTICAL MILE

 

    Latitude -  Measured North and South of the Equator (runs horizontally)

    Longitude - Measured East and West of the Prime Meridian (runs vertically)

On a Chart -  Water depth (feet/fathoms), bottom characteristics, aids to navigation (ATONS), navigational hazards, notes should be read to determine special characteristics of sailing area, danger areas, safe water areas.

Buoys -  ATONS (lighted or unlighted) which are not in a fixed position, but instead are moored/anchored.  Cannot count on exact position.

 Shown on chart as:    Lighted buoy  - Actual view
Chart mark for lighted buoy, which appears as a magenta circle with a magenta diamond affixed to the upper right side.  The first caption reads R "8" and the second caption reads FI R 4s.

Illustration of a lighted buoy, which has a red platform, with a rectangular red structure with a square in the upper left side and a white numeral 8 on the upper right. A red light is affixed to the top.

 

Red ATONS have EVEN numbers    -   Green ATONS have ODD numbers

 

Safe Water/ Mid-Channel Marks have LETTERS

Can pass on either side of this buoy

Shown on chart as:  Lighted buoy - Actual view

Chart mark for lighted and/or sound buoy, which appears as a magenta circle with a clear diamond affixed to the upper right side.  A line bisects the diamond vertically and a small clear circle is affixed to the top of the diamond.  The first caption reads RW "N" and the second caption reads Mo (A).

RW N"
Mo(A)

Illustration of lighted and/or sound buoy, which has a platform that is white on the left and red on the right.  The cylindrical structure is white on the left and red on the white, with a white square on the upper left and a white letter N on the upper right.  A white light and a red circle are affixed to the top.

There are none of these on Cayuga Lake

 

Fixed ATONS -  Can be certain of position....as they are fixed in position.  (lighted)  Seen on chart as seen to the right....

 Shown on chart as:    Lighted daymark  - Actual view
Chart mark for the light, which appears as a black circle with a magenta teardrop shape above it to the upper right side. First caption read "1" and second caption reads FI G 6 s. Symbol means the light is in a fixed position Chart mark for light, which appears as a black circle with a magenta teardrop shape above the upper right. The first caption reads "2" and the second caption reads FI R 6s.
"2"
FI R 6s

"1" Marker #

-All green markers have odd numbers

Fl = flashing

G= Green

6s= flashes every 6 seconds

 

"2" Marker #

All red markers have even numbers

Fl = flashing

R= Red

6s= flashes every 6 seconds

Illustration of a green light, which is a green square with dark green border and a green numeral 1 in the center.  The light is atop the square.   Illustration of a light, which appears as a red triangle with dark red border mounted on a pole.  A red numeral 2 appears in the center and a red light is affixed to the top.
This green type mark can be found in Ithaca on the white lighthouse exiting the inlet toward the lake.  #147 with a flashing white light

PORT SIDE DAYMARK

  This red type mark can be found in Ithaca on the red lighthouse exiting the inlet toward the lake.  #148 with a flashing red light.

STARBOARD SIDE DAYMARK

Lateral ATONS - Tell you which side of a channel to navigate

 Shown on chart as:    Preferred Channel Marker  - Actual view

Chart mark for lighted buoy, which appears as a magenta circle with a diamond that is magenta on the bottom and green on top affixed to the upper right side.  First caption reads RG "B" and second caption reads FI (2+1) R 6s.

OR Chart mark for daybeacon, which appears as a white square.  First caption reads GR and second caption reads "U".
 
Illustration of a lighted buoy, which has a green platform, with a rectangular structure that is red on the bottom and green on top.  A square appears on the upper side of the green portion, and a white letter B appears on the right side of the green portion.  A green light is affixed to the top. OR Illustration of a daybeacon, which is a square that is green on top and red on the bottom, with a corresponding border of dark green and dark red. The letter U appears in the center.  It is affixed to a post.

For PREFERRED CHANNEL, follow topmost band.

There are none of these on Cayuga Lake

Illustration of a water way area with the preferred channel (marked by a sold black line and arrow) going slightly left, a secondary channel (marked by a dotted black line and arrow) going right, and an intercoastal waterway (marked by a solid magenta line) going across the area horizontally.

Preferred Channel view from the website of the USCG     www.navcen/uscg.org      

 

IMPORTANT RULE:  When returning from SEAWARD, keep the RED to the RIGHT when RETURNING from sea

 
11.  MAGNETIC COMPASS - Some metals can affect the accuracy of your compass....as follows
ALWAYS NEVER SOME TYPES
Iron Aluminum Stainless Steel
Electrical Fields Bronze  
Radios    
 
12. ANCHORING

Review:  

Overnight Anchoring  -    Scope of  7 to 1    (7 feet of rode to every one foot of water)

Overnight in Heavy Weather -   Scope of  10 to 1  (10 feet of rode to every one foot of water)

 

Sample Question:  When anchoring in 25 feet of water, what is an appropriate scope for rode length for overnight anchoring in mild weather?       In Heavy Weather?                            Answers:   (7x25) 175 feet,       (10x 25) 250 feet

 

NEW:

TYPES OF ANCHORS MOST COMMON - 

Danforth Plough

From Danforth Anchor Company.  Danforthanchors.com

From Compass 24 website - Plough Anchor

Used in Sand, mud, clay, sometimes hard mud Used in Rock, hard surface bottoms, weeds, sometimes hard mud
Is effective when flukes dig into ground deeper.  A danforth can be lighter than other anchors in relation to boat weight. Is effective on hooking rock, shank can turn without coming undone.  Can hook trip line on loop in order to help when retrieving.  Must be Very Heavy to be effective. 
Shank is the long portion leading up.  Flukes are the pointed edges on the right side of picture Shank is the long portion pointing up to the left, fluke is the pointy part at the bottom

 

Rode should consist of a portion of chain that is attached to the anchor, and the rest anchor line (rope, usually 3 strand line)

CHAIN -  acts as a shock absorber, keeps the rode from chafing on the bottom, and helps to keep the anchor shank on the bottom

Always be sure the bitter end of the rode is attached to the boat before paying it out.

 

THE ANCHORAGE - 

You must choose a safe place to anchor your boat if you want to ensure good holding and less dragging of the hook.  There are some very important factors to consider when choosing your anchorage. 

**You must have the following:

1.  Good holding ground (bottom characteristics)

2.  Sufficient room to swing (anchoring from the bow needs the most swinging room)  You don't want to swing into another boat or into the shore.

3.  Sufficient depth of water.  If you swing on the anchor you don't want to run aground

4.  You'll need a good sheltered area that will not pose the danger of a lee shore (where you could drift free and run into the shore from an on-shore wind)  You want to make sure that you are sheltered from waves and swells.

 

EMERGENCIES AT ANCHOR -

There are chances that you could encounter emergencies while at anchor.  Use these tips to avoid or fix these emergencies:

EMERGENCY HOW TO FIX IT HOW TO AVOID IT
Dragging Anchor First, Increase the scope of your anchor rode. If that doesn't work, you may want to check the holding ground and type of anchor.  Last resort, re-set the anchor Check chart for bottom characteristics, choose correct anchor, be sure of depth and give additional scope when first setting the anchor
Grounding at Anchor You  may not have studied the chart and tide tables sufficiently so you should first consult them to make sure the tide isn't going out and that you have continued sufficient depth at all areas of swinging on the anchor. Use a lead line (line with a heavy weight on the end) to check for the side with the most depth and then try to get the boat off grounding. Be sure you know the depth of the water at low tide before anchoring.  Only anchor if you'll have sufficient water at all tidal levels.  Be sure there are no obstructions in your swinging radius

 

13. ADVANCED MANEUVERING

Heaving to -  Done by tightening in the jib, and starting the tacking maneuver without releasing it as the tack is completed.  The boat heads around passing the bow over the wind and the jib is BACKWINDED.  The tiller should immediately be lashed to leeward.  This keeps the bow of the boat driving to leeward while the tiller is trying to steer the boat back into the wind.  It can't turn into the wind, and the boat gently rides and drifts, slowing the speed to less than one knot.  Now is a good time for reefing the main as the main can be eased and all pressure released.  This maneuver can also be done to stop or slow the boat so the crew can recouperate during periods of heavy weather.

 

Reefing Sails -  Shortening the main sail by pulling down the sail to a new shorter size, making a new tack and clew and creating a new foot on the sail.  Reef lines should be pulled very tight in order to make a flat sail.  Reefing is done in order to reduce sail area in heavy, increasing wind in order to reduce heel and keep boat in control.

 

14. DIVE  FLAGS

 


Traditional Diver-Down Flag

Found often in the US

Alpha Dive Flag
International Use

 

15. SAIL COMBINATIONS

As wind increases, you must make decisions as to what sail changes should be made. At low winds, you need to POWER UP (round sails & leeches).  As wind increases you should DE-POWER the boat (flat sails, tight luff and foot tension, release tension on leech)

WIND SPEED (in knots) SAIL CONFIGURATION
0-10 Full Main and Large Genoa
11-16 Full Main and working jib
17-25 1 reef in main, working jib or smaller storm jib
26-35 2 reefs in main and small storm jib or no jib
36 + 2 or 3reefs in main and very small storm jib or BARE POLES AND A STORM PARA ANCHOR.  May replace reefed main with storm trysail in place of main

 

16. WEATHER HAZARDS

You should learn to be aware of the local weather hazards that may present themselves in your local boating area. 

In Ithaca, NY , sailing on Cayuga Lake, it is important to be aware of the regular wind directions and hazards associated with seasonal weather changes.  When traveling to other areas, you should find out about the local hazards and heed warnings to such.

 

In Ithaca, we experience mostly North or South winds (more often from the North).  Being that the lake is 40 miles long, when the wind moves all the way down