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ADVANCED SAILING
(ASA 103 - Skippering)
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Additional Parts of
the Boat
-
Items required by
the USCG
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Firefighting - types
of extinguishers
-
Safety Procedures
-
Knots
-
Fuels & safety
-
Additional Man
Overboard Techniques - Hypothermia
-
Rules of the Road -
Navigation Rules
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Navigational Lights
required for sailboats under sail/power, at anchor
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Chart work &
navigation
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Magnetic Compass
-
Anchoring
-
Advanced Maneuvering
-
Diver Flags
-
Sail Combinations
-
Weather Hazards
-
Skipper & Crew
responsibilities
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ALL
ITEMS IN STUDY GUIDE WILL BE FOUND ON ASA 103 WRITTEN EXAM
 |
OTHER ASA STUDY GUIDES
BASIC
KEELBOAT (ASA 101 - Learn to Sail)
INTERMEDIATE CRUISING STUDY GUIDE
(ASA 104 - Bareboat Charter)
COASTAL NAVIGATION (ASA 105 - HOME STUDY COURSE GUIDE) |
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INTRO TO SKIPPERING
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1. ADDITIONAL PARTS OF THE BOAT
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DEFINE ARE
AS ON BOARD
The Transom The back of the boat, at the stern, where
the name of the boat is usually seen, and the Hull ID# is found.
The Head the bathroom/toilet/shower
The Galley The kitchen area on a boat, always called
the galley stove, sink, icebox/frig
V-Berth - The forward cabin thats V-shaped (no kidding
right?)
Bow
(Forward) - Toward the front of the boat
Stern (Aft)
- Toward the back of the boat
Pulpit -
Strong tubing frame on the stern and the bow, where lifelines
attach
REEFING
Roller Reefing where the boom rolls the main sail
around it, shortening the sail for heavier wind.
Jiffy or Slab Reefing used to shorten main sail for
heavier wind by having lines through the sails clew that can be
pulled down quickly and adjusted tightly for quick (or jiffy)
reefing. Some have diamond shape reinforcements sewn along
the new foot with grommet in the middle and a line that is used
to tie the shortened sail in place firmly. When reefing,
you must also make a new tack by tacking the reefing grommet and
hooking it around a 'ram's horn' to hold it in place. |
ADDITIONAL PARTS OF THE BOAT
Turnbuckle Strong, stainless steel fitting that
has threads on each end and is attached at the bottom of the
forestay, backstay, and shrouds. Can be tightened/loosened if
needed. Held in place once set with pins.
Chainplate
Fitting at the bottom of the turnbuckle that goes through the
deck and is affixed to something solid and stable to hold the
rigging in place firmly.
Gudgeon - attached to the boat, where the pintles slide
in, to hold the rudder on the back of the boat.
Pintle pins on the rudder that slide into the holes of
the gudgeon where the rudder will be affixed in place when in
use.
Tiller/Wheel: Steering arm or mechanism controls
rudder
Rudderpost used as a lever to get more purchase when
hauling lines. Offers pulling power.
Binnacle -
Solid fitting where the wheel is attached in the cockpit.
Compass usually found on top of binnacle.
Through-hull fitting - Any fitting that goes through the
hull under the waterline.
Self bailing
cockpit drain - Drains in the cockpit that lead out
either down through the hull (they fill up to the waterline
only) or drains out the back of the cockpit near the waterline.
Allows water to be drained out of the cockpit if swamped by a
wave.
Masthead Fly (Windex) Cool object on top of the mast
that points into the wind showing the wind direction.
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2. ITEMS
REQUIRED BY THE US COAST GUARD & RECOMMENDED BY THE A.S.A for a boat
of 27 feet in length with an auxiliary outboard engine.
Chart for all size boats available in the Federal Safety Guide in
ASA Package
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REQUIRED BY THE US COAST GUARD
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RECOMMENDED BY ASA |
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USCG approved PFD (personal
floatation device) Type I,II, or III for each person aboard
- must fit appropriately |
Two anchors with at least 200'
rode and markers defining the intervals of length |
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One Type IV throwable floatation
device (Type 4 cushion, Ring or horseshoe buoy) |
A copy of the local chart and an
operable compass |
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Operable Navigation Lights |
VHF radio |
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Day (Orange flag with black
ball/black circle) & Night visual distress signals
(Handheld Flares, Rocket flares) |
Safety harnesses for each person
aboard
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Sound producing device (horn)
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Bailer or manual bilge pump |
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Fire extinguisher, 2 Type B-1 or
1 Type B-II
(B is the type of fir
e it fights and I or II is the
size - Type B: Boil - fights fires from flammable
liquids) |
First Aid kit, tool kit and
spare parts, soft wood plugs tied next to each through hull
fitting in case of leaks |
|
State registration numbers &
sticker on both sides of the bow |
Flashlight with some extra
batteries |
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3.
FIREFIGHTING |
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TYPES OF FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
A,B,C = Type of fire to fight
I,II,II = Size |
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TYPE A |
TYPE B |
TYPE C |
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Ash - Paper,
cloth |
Boil - Flammable
Liquids |
Current -
Electrical |
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On Exam: On an 27 foot sailboat with an auxiliary
outboard engine - the USCG requires either Two B-1, or One
B-II |
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Details on requirements for various sized vessels can be found
here:
http://www.uscgboating.org/safety/fed_reqs/equ_refchart.htm
Failure to comply with requirements can
result in fines from the local law enforcement/USCG.
Be sure to know what you're vessel is required to have.
You can get FREE vessel safety checks from the USCG Auxiliary
in Ithaca, NY every other Saturday during the summer. They
will tell you if you are missing any requirements. |
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4. SAFETY ITEMS & PROCEDURES - All on 103 exam |
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In Cabin |
On Deck |
Flares |
Fog |
Steering |
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Running Aground |
Fouling Propeller |
Leaks |
Rigging |
Using VHF Radio |
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IN THE CABIN
-
Stow all gear in
cabin MOST IMPORTANTLY in order to keep it safe and organized.
When crew is walking through cabin, gear should not fly around
when the boat lurches and rocks. Stowing gear in the
same place each time, helps in emergencies so that everything
is easy to find when it's needed.
-
You would also want
to be sure gear is stowed effectively in order to keep it from
getting wet.
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ON DECK
-
When walking
forward always have ONE HAND FOR YOU AND ONE FOR THE SHIP
-
The lifelines
should never be climbed on our used like a ladder. The
bow and stern pulpit are the solid point where the lifelines
attach to, and the lifelines are meant to keep the crew on
deck. You should NOT hang on or put undue pressure on
the lifelines.
-
A safety harness
is meant to help keep a crew member attached to the boat.
Jack lines are the lines that run the length of the boat
from bow to stern, which you would use to attach your tether.
The tether is clipped onto your safety harness. Crew
should clip onto the jack lines whenever exiting the cabin and
entering the cockpit during heavy weather and when sailing
offshore.
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FLARES
-
Flares are used as
night or day distress signals.
-
Day/Night distress
signals are required by the US Coast Guard
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Flares can be
handheld or launched from a flare gun
-
To operate flares,
the instructions are as follows: Remove black cover on
top of flare, hold away from body, face and boat, Always
point flares to leeward, strike ignition button against
striker surface on flare cap.
-
NEVER STRAP A FLARE
TO THE BOAT !
-
NEVER IGNITE THE
FLARE ON THE WINDWARD SIDE OF THE BOAT !
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FOG
-
When operating in
fog, observe these precautions: Slow
down, get all crew on deck to help listen for approaching
boats and watch for obstructions, keep quiet so you can hear
approaching vessels, sound appropriate sound signals to
describe your vessel and listen for others sound signals,
maintain a lookout, hoist a radar reflector, keep track of
your course and distance and plot your position on your chart.
-
NEVER drive fast
through fog, enter shipping lanes in fog, turn up music loud,
or send the crew away.
-
SOUND SIGNAL FOR A
SAILBOAT UNDERWAY IN FOG: _____________
_ _ Every 2
minutes
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STEERING FAILURE
-
First - Set
up another method of steering. You can steer with the
sails if necessary. If you lost your rudder, you may
want to rig another rudder. If you're wheel steering
failed, you can attach an emergency tiller
-
Second - Put
all crew in PFD if not already
-
Third - If
necessary, radio for assistance or contact a local boat for
help with visual distress signals
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RUNNING AGROUND
-
There are three
types of sailors - those who have run aground, those who
will run aground and those who lie
-
If you run aground
while sailing on a beam reach, you can immediately, ease the
sheets to reduce your forward momentum
-
You may be able to
sail or motor off if you're not hard aground
-
You may also be
able to jibe if you're sailing a broad reach or a run in order
to get off being grounded
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If you are hard
aground you want to check the depth on all sides of the boat
and try to kedge the boat off to deeper water with an anchor
set out to the side of the boat, or attach an anchor rode to a
halyard and try to heel the boat.
-
Check tide tables
to see if it's high or low tide
-
If all else fails,
you can always request a tow
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FOULING PROPELLER
-
A propeller can get
fouled, or wrapped by a line or wire in various situations.
Some prop fouling comes from things such as fishing lines,
stray lines floating in the water, long stringy weeds, dinghy
towing line (painter), lines thrown to retrieve a Man
overboard.
-
The first thing you
would do in this case is to STOP THE ENGINE. This stops
the fouling from getting worse.
-
The boat will be
drifting at this point (unless the sails are up) so you'll
want to stop the boat from hitting anything but dropping the
anchor if possible, or setting the sails to remove you from a
dangerous collision with other boats, walls docks, etc.
-
You will have to
cut the line free somehow, but you'll want to be VERY cautious
as the boat will lurch up in waves and could crash on top of
you if you're underneath the boat. You may hire a diver to
come and free the line if you don't feel confident in cutting
it free.
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LEAKS
-
Leaks can come from
open hatches, leaky hatches, through-hull fittings that have
broken or worn out or a hole in the side of the boat.
-
First course of
action is always to determine the source of the leak and
decide how extreme the leak is. Plug the leak by the
most effective means. Sometimes this means putting a
soft wood plug into a broken through-hull or piling cushions
on the location and trying to stuff it and stop water from
entering.
-
You should then be
sure to activate bilge pumps to remove any water that has
entered the boat. Be sure to monitor how fast the leak
is filling the boat.
-
If the boat is
holed, you can use a collision mat, or take the sail and drape
it over the hole stopping water from entering.
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RIGGING
-
Rigging can fail in
many capacities. The mast can break, the wire
stays/shrouds can bust, a halyard can snap or a block could
burst of of it's mount.
-
If standing rigging
fails, you should FIRST take the load off the rigging, by
positioning the boat to reduce strain, and easing sails.
-
If a halyard were
to break, you would FIRST have to secure the sail and then
work on rigging another halyard. Often you may have an
extra halyard or a spinnaker halyard that is not being used at
the moment.
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USING VHF RADIO
-
Channel 16 is the
HAILING STATION - it is used to hail another boat, or to
call for help in an emergency
-
Radio checks should
NOT be performed on Channel 16, but instead on 68 or 72, which
are intership stations
-
If no one returns
your radio check you can use a handheld radio to listen for
your transmittal
-
May Day is used
only in life threatening situations or if your vessel is
seriously endangered. (on fire, sinking, abandoning ship)
-
Pan-Pan is used for
emergency situations that are not life-threatening but require
immediate assistance (ie: lost steerageway and drifting
without control)
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Securitay -
is used for broadcasting navigational hazards.
-
These are done on
Channel 16
-
WX is the weather
frequency - You should listen to the weather EACH TIME
YOU GO OUT ON THE WATER. You can get the hazardous
weather outlook, most recent condition update, weather system
info for the region, extended weather outlook, wind speed and
direction and anticipated changes. Don't always rely on
the fact that the wind speeds are accurate as often they are
forecast much lower than what is really out there. Use
the natural surroundings and clouds to help choose sail
configuration and also look at other boats already on the
water.
-
TO TRANSMIT -
Be sure to depress knob, speak and let go of knob when
finished. To call another vessel you will say the name
of the vessel three times, and identify yourself. EX.
"Belle-Meres, Belle-Meres, Belle-Meres, this is Skai, over".
OVER MEANS YOU'RE DONE SPEAKING AND AWAITING A RESPONSE.
Belle-Mere replys: "This is Belle-Meres, go to 68,
OVER." Both parties switch to channel 68, wait for it to
be clear and discuss their business. when finished and
not awaiting a response the correct transmission is "This is
Skai, OUT". OUT MEANS I'M FINISHED AND I'M NOT AWAITING
A RESPONSE."
-
Calling to Bridges
or locks is done on specific stations, see guidebooks or
cruising guides or signs for info.
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5. KNOTS |
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Knots that you should know:
THESE ARE NEW: (click titles for example in motion)
Round turn and two half hitches (for securing an unattended
boat),
Sheet bend (securing lines of unequal diameter - also known
as a flag bend)
THESE ARE REVIEW: Bowline, Figure 8, Cleat Hitch, Clove
hitch, half hitches, reef knot. Visit
www.seaitallhere.com/knots and go to our knots page for
illustrations and practice.
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There are some basic knots that very important
and can be applied in most situations to get you through.
1.
Overhand Knot
-Stopper knot - Very difficult to untie. Use
wh en
its not necessary to untie regularly. Makes it easy to grip
rope with overhand knots every foot.
2.
Figure
8
Knot - Stopper Knot Used on running
rigging. Use on the end of sheets to keep them from
flailing through blocks (nautical pulleys).
3.
Reef Knot
Bend (ONLY for temporary joining of two lines)
Used on lines of equal diameter. Use this for reefing.
It is easy to get undone, but secure for reefing.
4.
Clove Hitch Hitch - Used to fasten a line to
a rai l, post, spar or bollard. Use on round posts.
Add two half hitches to make is secure

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5.
Bowline (prounounced bow-lin) Loop -A
non-slipping temporary loop. The bowline has been
called the king of knots; it will hold under tension, will never
jam, and
can be easily untied. Use this line for many things. Its
very versatile. For example, its often used when stepping
the mast. It is tied around the spreaders in order to lift
the mast. The standing end will lead to the gin pole or
crane. Also use when tying to a post.
6.
Half Hitches Hitch (Often used with the clov e hitch to make more secure)
7. Round turn and 2 half hitches Strong,
dependable, never jams. Fasten lines to a ring, post, bollard,
deck eye, rail. Use to attach fenders to lifelines
temporarily or to tie your horse to a post in Nevada (if youre
a cowgirl.)
8.
Cleat Hitch Tie around cleats

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6. FUELS, GASES &
SAFETY
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There are various
fuels in use on board cruising boats. Always clean up any fuel
spills by wiping up or washing away fuel. Always ventilate cabin
and sniff bilges for fumes before starting engine or electrical
equipment. CLOSE UP CABIN BEFORE FUELING WITH
GASOLINE SO VAPORS DON'T ENTER CABIN. Fire extinguishers should
not be mounted in engine compartments (unless fixed mount)
because if fire starts there, you cannot get to the
extinguisher.
**IN ORDER TO INSURE SAFETY, MAKE SURE
YOU VENTILATE ALL CABINS OR AREAS WHERE THERE ARE POTENTIAL FIRE
HAZARDS
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GASOLINE |
DIESEL |
PROPANE |
KEROSENE |
ALCOHOL |
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Used for: Outboard or
inboard engines
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Used mostly for inboard engine and
sometimes heating source |
Used for cooking |
Used mostly for lighting and
sometimes for cooking |
Used mostly for cooking and
sometimes for heating |
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Always
have proper ventilation or a blower for inboard gas engines.
Gasoline is highly flammable. Always shut off engine, remove all
crew from boat when fueling, NEVER refill portable tanks on
board boat. Keep fuel fill in contact with tank to avoid
spark and fire. Make sure portable tanks have vents that can be
opened or closed, and leave open when starting, closed when
transporting or relocating. After fueling, open cabin and
ventilate before starting engine! |
Diesel fuel has a higher
flashpoint (ignition level) than gasoline, so it is much safer.
Diesel tanks have ventilation. |
Propane is under pressure and
can be dangerous if leaks persist. Can cause explosion if
leaking. Tanks should be mounted with vent over the side
of the boat above the waterline. |
Many brass lamps are lighted
by use of Kerosene. Other stoves can operate on kerosene
as well.
It carries a strong odor
and can cause headaches. |
Alcohol stoves burn a wet
flame and do not burn as hot as propane. Holding tanks are
not under much pressure and do not have the same dangerous
potential to explode as propane does |
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There
are various gases omitted while operating cruising boats.
Some are as follows: |
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HYDROGEN GAS |
METHANE GAS |
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Batteries give off hydrogen gas
when charging |
A waste holding tank on board
cruising boats can give off methane gas |
|
Battery
storage areas should always have proper ventilation to the
battery storage location in order to let hydrogen gas escape and
be vented out of cabin |
Waste
holding tanks should be emptied regularly and odor & bacteria
reducing chemicals should be added to tanks. Tanks should
be cleared out with plain water when emptying. |
7. ADDITIONAL MAN OVERBOARD
TECHNIQUES - HYPOTHERMIA SYMPTOMS
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Sailors should
practice the Figure 8 method of retrieving a Man Overboard
regularly in a variety of conditions, so that it's second nature
if it should happen. If possible, practice with a real
person in the water can make it more realistic, but please use
extreme caution !!!! To retrieve a person in the water,
use a ladder if they can climb it, or rig the boom vang or 4 to
1 purchase tackle to a winch for more pulling power. If
possible, do not put another person in the water to save the
first victim. Be sure to attach all to the boat as soon as
possible. |
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WHEN YOU HAVE A CREW
OVERBOARD SITUATION YOU SHOULD ALWAYS TREAT THE VICTIM FOR
HYPOTHERMIA ! |
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LEVELS OF HYPOTHERMIA CAN BE DETERMINED AS FOLLOWS: |
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MILD
HYPOTHERMIA
1. Violent
Shivering
2. Slurred
Speech
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MEDIUM HYPOTHERMIA
1. Loss of
muscular control
2. Incoherence,
drowsiness, exhaustion
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SEVERE HYPOTHERMIA
1. Respiratory distress
2. Collapse & unconsciousness |
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NEVER DO THE FOLLOWING TO A HYPOTHERMIC
VICTIM:
Massage limbs,
administer aspirin/medication or alcohol, elevate head, position
on stomach |
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If you are the Overboard Victim(s):
-Stay in one place so
the crew can find you, stay still to keep in body heat, keep
clothing on, put on floatation device if not already wearing
one, float in the HELP position (fetal position)
-If there is a GROUP OF PEOPLE, in the water together wearing
PFDs, you should huddle together face to face with arms around
each other as you await rescue. |
|
To treat MEDIUM HYPOTHERMIA
- You should apply direct body heat. Get wet clothes
off victim and rescuers should take off most clothing and get
into sleeping bag or under blanket and press warm body against
the victim to warm them. |
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8.
NAVIGATION
RULES OF THE ROAD - REVIEW |
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In any navigational right of way
situation, there is always a Stand-On Vessel AND a Give Way
Vessel
STAND ON VESSEL
- Has the right of way, must maintain course and speed
GIVE WAY
VESSEL - DOES NOT have the right of way, must slow down,
and/or stay out of the way of the Stand On Vessel(s) |
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Right of way UNDER SAIL ONLY:
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UNDER POWER:
-
A Sailboat (or any
vessel) with its engine on is considered a power boat
-
Vessels to your right
are in your DANGER Zone (you give way when paths crossing) You
will see a red light at night when in the danger zone. RED
MEANS STOP.
-
Vessels to your left are
in your SAFETY Zone (you stand on your course when paths
cross) You will see a green light at night when in the
safety zone. GREEN MEANS GO
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OVERTAKING (PASSING)
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POWER VS. SAIL
Sail generally has the
right of way over power vessels, unless:
-
The power vessel is a
tanker in a narrow channel (or the vessel is constrained by its
draft)
-
The vessel is at anchor
-
The vessel is commercial
fishing
-
The vessel is restricted
in its ability to maneuver (ie: dredging, commercial fishing)
-
The vessel is adrift
(not under command)
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SAIL VS. SAIL
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9. NAVIGATION - REQUIRED LIGHTS
See the USCG site for
arcs of visibility (ON 103 EXAM):
http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/mwv/navrules/Arcs.htm |
| UNDER SAIL ONLY |
UNDER POWER |
BOATS AT ANCHOR |
 |
 |
 |
|
Red sidelight: 112.5
degrees |
Red sidelight: 112.5
degrees |
All around white light: 360
degrees |
|
Green sidelight: 112.5
degrees |
Green sidelight: 112.5
degrees |
Sail: located at top of
mast |
|
White Stern Light: 135
degrees aft |
White Stern Light: 135
degrees aft |
|
|
Option: Combo light atop the mast |
Sail Under Power: White
Steaming Light shining forward of the mast at the spreaders:
225 degrees |
|
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NAVIGATION
CHARTS - NAVIGATIONAL AIDS |
|
Charts - Use a
chart for navigating any waters that you are boating |
|
**DISTANCE ON A NAUTICAL CHART IS MEASURED IN NAUTICAL MILES
(Statue
mile X 1.15 = Nautical Mile) |
|
**ONE MINUTE OF LATITUDE EQUALS ONE NAUTICAL MILE
Latitude - Measured North and South of the Equator (runs
horizontally)
Longitude - Measured East and West of the Prime Meridian (runs
vertically) |
|
On a Chart -
Water depth (feet/fathoms), bottom characteristics, aids to navigation
(ATONS), navigational hazards, notes should be read to determine
special characteristics of sailing area, danger areas, safe water
areas. |
|
Buoys - ATONS
(lighted or unlighted) which are not in a fixed position, but instead
are moored/anchored. Cannot count on exact position.
|
Shown
on chart as: |
Lighted buoy - Actual view |
 |
 |
Red ATONS have EVEN numbers
- Green ATONS have ODD numbers
|
Safe
Water/ Mid-Channel Marks have LETTERS
Can pass on either side
of this buoy |
|
Shown
on chart as: |
Lighted buoy - Actual view |
|

RW N"
Mo(A) |

There are none of these
on Cayuga Lake |
|
|
Fixed ATONS -
Can be certain of position....as they are fixed in position.
(lighted) Seen on chart as seen to the right....
|
Shown
on chart as: |
Lighted daymark - Actual view |
 |
Symbol means the light is in a fixed position |

"2"
FI R 6s |
|
"1" Marker #
-All green markers have odd numbers
Fl =
flashing
G=
Green
6s=
flashes every 6 seconds |
|
"2" Marker #
All red markers have even numbers
Fl =
flashing
R= Red
6s=
flashes every 6 seconds |
|
 |
|
 |
|
This
green type mark can be found in Ithaca on the white lighthouse
exiting the inlet toward the lake. #147 with a flashing
white light
PORT SIDE DAYMARK |
|
This
red type mark can be found in Ithaca on the red lighthouse
exiting the inlet toward the lake. #148 with a flashing
red light.
STARBOARD SIDE DAYMARK |
|
|
|
Lateral ATONS - Tell
you which side of a channel to navigate |
|
Shown
on chart as: |
Preferred Channel Marker - Actual view |
|
 |
OR |
 |
|
 |
OR |
 |
For PREFERRED CHANNEL,
follow topmost band.
There are none of these
on Cayuga Lake |

Preferred
Channel view from the website of the USCG
www.navcen/uscg.org
IMPORTANT RULE:
When returning from SEAWARD, keep the RED to the RIGHT when RETURNING
from sea |
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11. MAGNETIC COMPASS - Some metals can
affect the accuracy of your compass....as follows |
| ALWAYS |
NEVER |
SOME TYPES |
| Iron |
Aluminum |
Stainless Steel |
| Electrical Fields |
Bronze |
|
| Radios |
|
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|
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12. ANCHORING |
|
Review:
Overnight Anchoring - Scope of
7 to 1 (7 feet of rode to every one foot of water)
Overnight in Heavy Weather - Scope
of 10 to 1 (10 feet of rode to every one foot of water)
Sample Question:
When anchoring in 25 feet of water, what is an appropriate scope for rode
length for overnight anchoring in mild weather?
In Heavy Weather?
Answers: (7x25) 175 feet,
(10x 25) 250 feet
NEW:
TYPES OF ANCHORS MOST COMMON -
|
Danforth |
Plough |
|
 |
 |
| Used in Sand, mud,
clay, sometimes hard mud |
Used in Rock, hard
surface bottoms, weeds, sometimes hard mud |
| Is effective when
flukes dig into ground deeper. A danforth can be lighter than
other anchors in relation to boat weight. |
Is effective on
hooking rock, shank can turn without coming undone. Can hook
trip line on loop in order to help when retrieving. Must be Very
Heavy to be effective. |
| Shank is the long
portion leading up. Flukes are the pointed edges on the right
side of picture |
Shank is the long
portion pointing up to the left, fluke is the pointy part at the
bottom |
Rode should consist of a portion of chain that is attached to the anchor,
and the rest anchor line (rope, usually 3 strand line)
CHAIN - acts as a shock
absorber, keeps the rode from chafing on the bottom, and helps to keep the
anchor shank on the bottom
Always be sure the bitter end of
the rode is attached to the boat before paying it out.
THE ANCHORAGE -
You
must choose a safe place to anchor your boat if you want to ensure
good holding and less dragging of the hook. There are some very
important factors to consider when choosing your anchorage.
**You must have the following:
1.
Good holding ground (bottom characteristics)
2.
Sufficient room to swing (anchoring from the bow needs the most swinging
room) You don't want to swing into another boat or into the shore.
3.
Sufficient depth of water. If you swing on the anchor you don't want
to run aground
4.
You'll need a good sheltered area that will not pose the danger of a lee
shore (where you could drift free and run into the shore from an on-shore
wind) You want to make sure that you are sheltered from waves and
swells.
EMERGENCIES AT ANCHOR -
There are chances that you could encounter emergencies while at anchor.
Use these tips to avoid or fix these emergencies:
|
EMERGENCY |
HOW TO FIX IT |
HOW TO AVOID IT |
| Dragging Anchor |
First, Increase the scope of
your anchor rode. If that doesn't work, you may want to check the
holding ground and type of anchor. Last resort, re-set the
anchor |
Check chart for bottom
characteristics, choose correct anchor, be sure of depth and give
additional scope when first setting the anchor |
| Grounding at Anchor |
You may not have
studied the chart and tide tables sufficiently so you should first
consult them to make sure the tide isn't going out and that you have
continued sufficient depth at all areas of swinging on the anchor. Use
a lead line (line with a heavy weight on the end) to check for the
side with the most depth and then try to get the boat off grounding. |
Be sure you know the depth of
the water at low tide before anchoring. Only anchor if you'll
have sufficient water at all tidal levels. Be sure there are no
obstructions in your swinging radius |
|
|
13.
ADVANCED MANEUVERING |
|
Heaving to
- Done by tightening in the jib, and
starting the tacking maneuver without releasing it as the tack is
completed. The boat heads around passing the bow over the wind and
the jib is BACKWINDED. The tiller should immediately be lashed to
leeward. This keeps the bow of the boat driving to leeward while the
tiller is trying to steer the boat back into the wind. It can't turn
into the wind, and the boat gently rides and drifts, slowing the speed to
less than one knot. Now is a good time for reefing the main as the
main can be eased and all pressure released. This maneuver can also
be done to stop or slow the boat so the crew can recouperate during
periods of heavy weather.
Reefing Sails -
Shortening the main sail by pulling down the sail to a new shorter size,
making a new tack and clew and creating a new foot on the sail. Reef
lines should be pulled very tight in order to make a flat sail.
Reefing is done in order to reduce sail area in heavy, increasing wind in
order to reduce heel and keep boat in control.
|
|
14.
DIVE FLAGS |
|

Traditional Diver-Down Flag
Found often in the US |

Alpha Dive Flag
International Use
|
|
|
15.
SAIL COMBINATIONS |
|
As wind increases, you must make decisions as
to what sail changes should be made. At low winds, you need to POWER UP
(round sails & leeches). As wind increases you should DE-POWER the
boat (flat sails, tight luff and foot tension, release tension on leech)
|
WIND SPEED (in knots) |
SAIL CONFIGURATION |
|
0-10 |
Full Main and
Large Genoa |
|
11-16 |
Full Main and
working jib |
|
17-25 |
1 reef in
main, working jib or smaller storm jib |
|
26-35 |
2 reefs in
main and small storm jib or no jib |
|
36 + |
2 or 3reefs in
main and very small storm jib or BARE POLES AND A STORM PARA ANCHOR.
May replace reefed main with storm trysail in place of main |
|
|
16.
WEATHER HAZARDS |
|
You
should learn to be aware of the local weather hazards that may present
themselves in your local boating area.
In
Ithaca, NY , sailing on Cayuga Lake, it is important to be aware of the
regular wind directions and hazards associated with seasonal weather
changes. When traveling to other areas, you should find out about
the local hazards and heed warnings to such.
In Ithaca, we experience mostly
North or South winds (more often from the North). Being that
the lake is 40 miles long, when the wind moves all the way down | | |